Story of Dazaifu Shrine


            Dazaifu Shrine is probably the most famous shrine in Japan’s southernmost island of Kyushu, which is one of the Japanese archipelago’s four main islands. Dazaifu Shrine is a shrine dedicated to academia and scholarship and is the most famous shrine in the country in regards to such. Though the shrine can be visited any time during the year so that one may pray, the Japanese New Year brings people (especially students) from all over Japan in droves in order to pray for favor in regards to academia. Droves may be an understatement. The city of Dazaifu has a population of about 67,500 people. During the first three days of New Year alone, Dazaifu shrine receives about 2,000,000 visitors, all of whom hope to curry favor with the deity of the shrine.

            The shrine and property surrounding the shrine is actually quite pretty. The property contains two ponds. One of the ponds is shaped like the Chinese character that means “heart”. Crossing the pond are three walkable bridges. The first bridge leading towards the shrine is arched, the second bridge is flat and the final bridge is again arched like the first. These three bridges convey a Buddhist conception of time: past, present and future. The meaning of this idea is that a person should only hold one thought at a time. The property also contains many Asian plum trees. The reason for this will become more apparent later.

            The shrine was built in 905 in honor of the recently departed Sugawara no Michizane. Sugawara no Michizane lived during the Japanese Heian period from 845 to 903. He was said to be a child prodigy because of his skill in creating poetry extemporaneously using Chinese characters. His family was a family of scholars starting with his grandfather. With a background in higher education, Michizane entered and graduated from the Japanese national academy. After graduating from the academy, Michizane was appointed to the royal court. As time progressed, Michizane’s skill in Chinese earned him a promotion to a diplomatic office. And following that, the emperor appointed Michizane to the position of minister, which was almost exclusively reserved for those with noble blood. With this great promotion Michizane earned some enemies. The worst enemy he could have at that time was the Fujiwara family, which to all intents and purposes ruled the country.

            According to research, Fujiwara no Tokihira wanted to push his power on Emperor Daigo and did not like Sugawara no Michizane being so close to the emperor. Apparently Tokihira convinced the emperor that Michizane was trying to take the throne. What is strange about this is that Michizane could never hope to take the throne because he was not part of the royal bloodline. Either the emperor was incredibly gullible or there is more to the story than what the author could find.

            At any rate, Michizane fell out of favor with the court and was transferred to the southern island of Kyushu to Dazaifu in Fukuoka prefecture. The transfer also included a painful demotion. Being transferred so far from the royal court as well as the demotion was a massive blow to Michizane. He was transferred to Dazaifu in 901 and he died a mere two years later in 903 at the age of 58. Upon being transferred he wrote another poem relating both to his cherished plum blossoms as well as the predicament he now found himself to be in. The poem is roughly translated as follows:
                                                    When the east wind blows,
                                                    let your scent rise, plum blossom.
                                                    Even if there is no master to serve,
                                                    don’t forget about the spring.
The meaning of this poem is a bit complex. Michizane is talking to the plum blossom tree as it were his loyal servant. He believes the plum blossom tree will miss him when he is transferred to Dazaifu from Kyoto. He reminds the plum blossom tree to stay strong and remember to do its job in the spring, which is to release its beautiful scent for all to enjoy. Legend also tells that upon Michizane’s exile to Dazaifu, his favorite plum blossom tree uprooted itself and flew east to accompany him.

            For up to thirty years following Michizane’s death various calamities struck the capital of Kyoto. In 909, Michizane’s nemesis Fujiwara no Tokihira died at a young age of 39. There were floods, plagues and droughts that swept across greater Japan killing many. Several of Emperor Diago’s sons died in succession. In 930 a massive black storm cloud approached the capital of Kyoto. Lightening struck the imperial palace killing several high council members. Among those killed was another member of the Fujiwara clan, Fujiwara no Kiyotsura who was a senior councilor. The imperial court believed that the angry spirit of Michizane was the cause of all of these misfortunes and restored his title as well as striking any mention of his exile from all records. Michizane was also promoted to deity status as Tenjin-sama (Spirit of Scholarship).

            The first shrine dedicated to Michizane was built in Dazaifu in 905. The Fujiwara clan built another shrine to Michizane in 919 but that shrine was destroyed in a fire during a civil war (perhaps another act of vengeance by the spirit of Michizane). The imperial court built a large shrine to Michizane in 947 to appease his spirit’s wrath. Over the centuries many more shrines were built in Michizane’s honor, but without a doubt the most famous shrine dedicated to Sugawara no Michizane is the Dazaifu Shrine in Fukuoka prefecture.  S.B.